Bulnes, heart of the Peaks of Europe

This is the usual mountain path that the neighbours used for many years because it is one of the safest. It is true that the mountain appears very steep at first glance.

Route on foot by the Texu’s cannel

We can park our car in the locality of Poncebos, seven kilometres from Arenas de Cabrales. This route is very similar to that of Cares, which also starts in the locality of Poncebos. The stretch to Bulnes is shorter yet is difficult to go and come back in the same day, so for this reason as well as feeling exhausted, one can feel satisfied at the effort put into it. Everyone can easily do it because it does not depend totally on age or health. From the bridge of La Jaya, close to the crossing of Poncebos and up to the town of Bulnes we have already ascended 400 metres of unevenness, with slopes that reach gradients of 8%. This type of ascend follows a road made of old stones that have felt the effects of weather and the thousand steps of walkers over many years. In some stretches of this road one can find stone stairs as a result of the erosion caused by the passage of time. Opposite there, we can see the famous Murallón of Amuesa. This is so vertical as the one of Peña Maín that we are on borders with a steep gorge over the Texu river, a channel which takes its name from this river and separates into two natural masses.

This road continues for another 4 kilometres, an hour and a half’s walk which leads us to a very small valley where the town of Bulnes is located. This town can be also considered as a previous stage before climbing the huge stair that leads us to the highest mountains.

To our side we can observe a small hill, Bulnes de Arriba (upper Bulnes) and ahead: Bulnes de Abajo (lower Bulnes) joined by the same road. Both of them are areas known as the Castillo and the Villa. During winter time the people live off their livestock and in summer they take advantage of tourism and people’s fondness of mountains. We get to the village through its cemetery and the ruined governing house, the most noble house in this town. In one side of the cemetery we can find the chapel that houses the Virgin of Las Nieves, the patron saint, who has her own celebration day in the beginning of August.

A small stream divides this town into two equal parts that have blocks of flats, hostels and several bars. The roads are as natural as the mountains themselves.

Once we get here we can spend the rest of our time contemplating the beauty of nature. We can also choose one of the numerous mountain routes that are available at this place.

Photos by Anda Conmigo

More information about Cabrales